Jessica Sews | Raglan Top + Wide Leg Dawn Jeans

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Look how tall my son is!! He’s only 4.5 and already taller than the average 5 year old. Schroeder genes*, baby!  *Everyone in my family is super tall - my dad is 6’6’’, my brother 6’7’’ and my sister 6’. I’m the shortie coming in at 5’9’’

Look how tall my son is!! He’s only 4.5 and already taller than the average 5 year old. Schroeder genes*, baby!

*Everyone in my family is super tall - my dad is 6’6’’, my brother 6’7’’ and my sister 6’. I’m the shortie coming in at 5’9’’

One of the first spring pieces I made this season is this blouse. It was a fun project because I was able to sew it up quickly, I used fabric I already had (via a thrifted skirt I upcycled) along with a stashed pattern also found at the thrift shop! I even did the bias binding on the neck and sleeves using the skirt lining! I had to piece one sleeve to get enough yardage, but I’m so glad I did because this top is a new favorite of mine! I got the idea to “harvest” fabric from one of my historical costume friends (PennyRiver on etsy) and have picked up cool prints/wool/silk to use with both costumes and modern pieces

I made it again in eyelet (also from a thrifted skirt), which I also love but didn’t get any photos of wearing in Florida (which is a shame because I wore it multiple days!) I’ve already cut it out of a third fabric, which I’m embroidering before I put it together!

Unfortunately the pattern is out of print, but if you see it under a new number, please let me know (it’s Simplicity 8391). There are four on Amazon right now (here) and a bunch on ebay (here)

The pants are another version of those Megan Nielsen Dawn jeans I love! This is the wide leg cut and they feel roomier than the tapered option. If you’re thinking you need some jeans in this silhouette, I cannot recommend this pattern enough. I mean, I want to say “I’ll make them for you!!!” but I honestly have three stashed fabrics in my queue for myself I want to do first! (if you’re wondering - a lighter denim for a 70s style wide leg and patch pockets, pink twill - I’m not sure whether to do a straight or wide leg there? and black denim for short overalls!). After I made the first pair, I was able to whip these up very quickly. I really want to commit to never buying another pair of store bought jeans again. Never say never I guess, but I feel really great about being able to tackle this item in my wardrobe myself.

The sunnies are from Target, the bag is an old Coach bag I lost the strap for so I used a belt in it’s place and the sandals are Clark’s from when I partnered with them many moons ago.

My kids were being super cute, so this is gonna be next year’s Christmas card. Sure they’ll be inches taller and look older, but taking photos of children is SO HARD. Capture the magic when you can. I don’t know why they wanted to be in this photo shoot, but hey! Why not? Bea’s dress is something I designed and sewed up using $2 cut of fabric. It was super quick and easy and not super fitted so she can hopefully wear all summer. Remember those little rompers (one, two, three, four) I made her last year? She hit a growth spurt and only wore each one a couple times!

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Jessica Sews | Overalls Hack with Dawn Jeans

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On to the next piece of my capsule wardrobe - my high waisted overalls! I had originally wanted to make the bib overall version of this pattern, but… I lost it! In a fervor to make something, I ordered the Megan Nielsen Dawn Jean as a pdf I could print at home. In the course of a couple days I stitched up my first pair and damn, they’re amazing. So amazing I’ve made the original pair in dark indigo, a wide leg pair in white, a sample/mockup of overalls and finally, this pair! The fit is incredible and they sew up really quickly. There’s also an amazing series of blog posts that take you step by step through the process, and I used those instead of the printed pattern instructions.

So overalls! Let’s walk through how I made ‘em!

Construction wise, the main change from standard five pocket jeans to overalls are the side closures. Your basic jeans will zip or button at center front, but the bib of the overall prohibits that. I opted to do two exposed button fly closures at each side seam to get in and out of my overalls. Luckily, the first pair of Dawn jeans I made were an exposed button fly, so the principals of the construction are exactly the same! Your button holes go onto your front leg piece (which is cut all the way to the side seam, ie - no pocket scoop) and the fly extension is sewn to the back leg and yolk. On my sample version I used the same fly/fly extensions as a front closure, but on my second pair, I made them a little shorter (-1”) and wider (+1/2”)

Also different - the waistband. Instead of opening at center front and cut in one long curved piece, it’s done in two separate pieces for front and back (four total pieces for inside/outside). I folded my waistband and brought in the edges to create this pattern piece, added a little extra seam allowance and stitched it up to match the front and back portions respectively.

Next the business of a new front pocket design. I looked around online (and made this board on Pinterest) and decided a long patch pocket with a slash opening fit my vision of perfect overalls, so I got to drafting it out. It ended up being around 9” long (I wanted it to extend below the crotch) and 6 1/2” wide (to give me enough room to keep a top stitched fly. I did a little corner edge and applied it with a double needle top stitch.

With the pockets done and the pant portion of the overalls all done, I drafted my bib. On my initial sample, I think it was a little short (you can see this if you watch my instagram highlights) so I made the second version much longer. Too long in fact! I kind of jumped the gun on that and ended up taking a tuck at the waistband to drop it down by 1 1/2”. But all is well that ends well and it was a simple enough solution. I’ll mark this on my paper pattern for the next time I make these in a different fabric. I sewed it up the center front using two pieces and finished it with a double top stitch. The sides of the bib are turned in twice at 3/8”, again with a double top stitch. The top was turned under 3/8” and again at around 1” with a single top stitch. The front pocket was cut asymmetrically like the versions I saw and loved online and finished with a double topstitch all around.

Lastly was the simple business of the straps, which are 1 1/2” wide to fit the buckles. There’s made to one length to fit my height.

The finishing touches on these overalls are the 10 metal shanks and buckles. I EFFING HATE SHANKS. I wasted so many by hammering them on at an angle (vs down straight) and had to wire cut them off and try again. I initially used Dritz brand and they suck. The ones that did best are the Hobby Lobby store brand because the back tack is a little longer and easier to hammer. I’d still like to source a different option, because I only shop there as a last resort (but in all honesty, its about 20 minutes closer to my house than JoAnns, right next to my grocery and they have some really cute fabric right now, so sue me, I’ll sacrifice my principals occasionally).

After I had all of my shanks attached, it’s back to the wash to pull out a little color and start the process of aging the denim. I used a 220 grit sandpaper gently over the surface of the pockets and other edges and it did a lovely job of lightening in those areas. I love the way denim fades, but it really just takes time!

A final note - these are out of stretch denim, which is just what I had in my stash. The Dawn jeans were designed to be made out of rigid fabric, so to compensate, I cut 3/8” off from my side seams, but made no other adjustments for fit. The end result is probably the best fitting pair of paints I’ve ever owned, and I just might make more this way. My rigid pair is TIGHT (which I love) but they need to be broken in more before they get to this level of comfort. That’s just stretch jeans for ya. The rigid fabric will last longer and the garments I’m making now are the kind of pieces I hope Bea wants to wear some day. I mean, how rad would it be to inherit a perfectly faded pair of your mom’s jeans? I would just flip if my mom had saved her jeans from the 70s.

So that’s my Dawn Jeans overall hack! I want to give Megan 50 rounds of applause for her amazing pattern that I used as a starting point. She and I are old friends and I can’t believe it’s taken me so long to get my hands on her patterns. Then again, I have taken a bit of a break with sewing while having such small kiddos in the house! If you’ve contemplated sewing your own jeans, I HIGHLY recommend this pattern!

Finally - outfit notes! I design and made my own hat using old school millinery techniques. The band is made from a vintage tie I had in my stash (a great and cheap way to get very small amounts of silk - I love using them for hand bands!). My tank is from Target. Someday I’d like to advance to sewing knits, but I’m ok buying them for now. I can also talk more about fast fashion and why Target is probably one of the better options (I used to work in the industry and have visited factories overseas) but I’m gonna save that for another day. On my feet - some self made espadrilles. Here’s my DIY post from when I originally made them!

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Jessica Sews | Beach Comber Blouse + Dawn Jeans

What I Wore - Beach Comber McCalls’s 7387
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What I Wore - Beach Comber McCalls’s 7387

Greetings friends! I wish I could say we’re still in sunny Florida, but we’ve traded sand castles for snowmen back in Indiana. It’s coming down right now as I write this, so I’ll just transport myself back to ocean breezes and beach combing with my kids.

For this trip, I made all my clothes. Ha! It feels so awesome to say that. I made all of my clothes! Minus a few knits and a swim top (I need more practice with stretch fabrics!) what you see over the next five posts are all things I’ve stitched up myself.

So without further ado, here are the details of my outfit from top to bottom!

The hat I’m wearing is an older style I made myself. I blocked the straw onto a custom brim and crown and finished it off with a vintage tie that I doctored up into a hat band. Fun fact: Stars + Field and all of it’s social media handles were originally for a hat company I started by the same name. This all happened at the time I had Felix and maybe I should have known having a newborn and trying to make handmade hats wasn’t going to occur simultaneously. Motherhood won out, but when I quit What I Wore I started using the Stars + Field name for my new blog. Viola! Here we are!

The shirt I’m wearing was by far my favorite of the trip! It’s a slight modification from McCalls’s 7387, view A. I cut the back using the pattern piece given, but did an inverted box pleat instead. I love the way the stripes form weird patterns because of it! On the front, I skipped the hidden button placket so I could do some fun covered buttons that match up perfectly. Speaking of! I worked really hard to make those stripes match up in every place I could and the end result was so worth it. This is an awesome pattern and I plan to make it up in white eyelet next!

I don’t have good close ups on the jeans (Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans), but I ended up using the same pattern to make three more pieces, which you’ll see in more detail in the next posts. I also have some video on my Instagram highlights if you want to see them in motion. I LOVE THIS PATTERN so much! And I love sewing jeans SO MUCH. Part of that comes from a great cut and secondly, the amazing instructions. Megan has a Design Diary Sew Along and I used while putting these together. It’s so handy for visual learning and I had my laptop out right next to my sewing machine. In some of my later versions I used a zipper fly - I really don’t like putting in zippers - but the sew along simplified it beyond belief (many portions are written by another sewer I follow - Holly - she’s great!) These jeans made of some really heavy Cone Mills denim I had in my stash and done with matching thread. I cut the tapered leg in my regular size and did an exposed button fly. LOVE LOVE LOVE!

This vacation capsule came together in three weeks of sewing whenever I possibly could. In contrast to my historical sewing, this stuff goes so much faster! I can make a pair of jeans in a day and ditto with these simple tops. I am so hooked on making my own wardrobe - I don’t know if I can go back to buying my clothes from the store. Knits are tricky and will take me some practice but I have some ideas I want to play around with there. Now it’s just a matter of finding the time. Spring and summer are really busy for us outside, but longer daylight hopefully means later nights… of sewing!

Please let me know what questions you might have in the comments or on instagram!

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What I Wore - Beach Comber McCalls’s M 7387

Sewing FAQ

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New to the sewing game? Thinking of taking up an awesome hobby? It’s never too late to learn how to sew!  I went out to my Instafam and asked what questions you may have, so read on for some of the more frequently asked questions I get related to sewing!

Where do I start?

Assuming you have access to a sewing machine, buy an inexpensive pattern (I recommend elastic waist pajama pants), the recommended fabric type and yardage, notions (thread, elastic) and set aside some time alone to read the pattern and then get started!

What a good way to move beyond straight seams without too much frustration?

Like the old saying goes - Practice Makes Perfect. And that might not be entirely true, because I’ve probably passed the 10,000 hour mark for sewing and I still make mistakes too! (My personal rule to avoid getting too frustrated is to stop when I’ve made two mistakes in a row).

You don’t have do actually make things to practice either. When I was in school we did sample books to learn different techniques - inserting zippers, fancy seams, darts, you name it. Precision and accuracy will come with repetition (and attention to detail!) 

When there’s something I haven’t done in a while, like an automated button hole, I do practice runs! Even when I think I’ve got it, I do another, just to be sure for the real deal (and even so, I’ve had thread run out or break and had to tear out!)

Also: Take. Your. Time! When I make a lot of mistakes in a row, it makes me hate sewing. My personal rule is to call it a night once I’ve made more than two errors. Frustration just builds on itself in my experience!

What are some good beginner projects?

For your home, try making a throw pillow or a pillow case (which don’t really need patterns - just measurements and observation of similar items you already have). 

If you’d like to sew for yourself, look for pajama pants or a full skirt with straight waistband. Look for patterns marked “easy” or “beginner”. Often they include extra explanations or details that newbies might need. 

Select a basic cotton in a tight weave - I think muslin or quilters cotton is a good way to start experimenting and is generally not shifty or slippery - two fabric qualities that make sewing more difficult. Old sheets can make good practice fabric too - and there’s a lot of yardage!

Depending on the project - at any level of expertise - seamstresses will sometimes make a muslin mock up. It’s especially helpful for new silhouettes or techniques you’re unfamiliar with.

With more experience you can move to more fitted garments. If you’re the engineering or math savvy type, you can also venture into pattern alterations and adjustments, but that’s a huge post for another day (and there IS a lot of this kind of thing already online!)

Do I really need to pre-wash my fabric?

Always pre treat your fabric in the same manner you’ll use for future washing. For me, I do whatever I need to shrink it, which is usually a hot wash and dry. Then iron it flat, pin your (ironed!) pattern pieces down and cut out! Accuracy is so important, so go slowly, work at a comfortable height (I like a kitchen counter) and pay attention to pattern grainlines and markings).

Do classes help or should I just sew sew sew?

Yes and yes! Classes are great for hands on learning and some things are just easier to understand that way. I took classes in college as a part of my costuming degree and since then I’ve signed up for knitting lessons and a hat making workshop. I’d love to take classes for sewing knits or making bras. 

All that said, time at your machine is the only way to perfect your technique! 


Where do you find patterns?

Lately I’m really into indie pattern designers and companies, like Megan Nielsen Patterns (love the Dawn Jean), Papercut (Rite of Spring Short) and the Seamwork Hayden Tee. I want to try the Kelly Anorak from Closet Case Patterns too! But I also use patterns from McCalls, Simplicity, VOGUE and Butterick. Basically - I’m open to anything! I scan the pattern books at the fabric store and keep a running list and WAIT FOR SALES. I buy indie patterns at full price because I want to support these designers. I also sometimes use vintage patterns (and collect via thrifts and garage sales!)


How do I grow my skill set to more advanced sewing?

Start by picking more difficult projects! Chances are, you’re already capable! 


Equipment and Tools

Machine

I highly recommend the Brother HC1850, which is available at a really reasonable $200. I’ve used mine for years and it was such an improvement over my previous machine (which was a Christmas gift when I was relatively new to sewing. Machine prices can range from under a hundred bucks to thousands. I certainly don’t recommend a huge investment if you’re not sure if you enjoy sewing, but if you’ve already spent some time using an entry priced machine and want my two cents, this one is for you.  (And speaking of two cents, if you do take my recommendation and buy through this affiliate link, I get a very small kickback).

If $200 is out of budget, my next suggestion is to visit a sewing repair shop and let them know you’d like to buy the best quality used machine at whatever your price point is. The folks that work in these stores are experts and can steer you in the right direction. In my opinion, you really only need front stitch, backstitch and a zig zag. Bonus points for an automatic buttonhole function, but I believe a sturdy machine is more important. The bells and whistles (my machine has over 100 stitches) are great, but truthfully, I use those main four stitches 99% of the time.

Lastly, I don’t use a serger/overlock machine and neaten my edges either through some self contained treatment (flat felled or French seams) or through a combo of straight line and zigzagged edges. Maybe one day if I get into sewing knits (which is something I’d like to learn!)

Iron

Pressing during construction is just as important as sewing in a straight line. Omitting the pressing steps is a recipe for mistakes and sloppy sewing. What iron you use is up to you, but a good steam and multiple heat settings are necessary.

Pressing Hams

The human body isn’t flat and sewing to fit your body will mean pressing curves - whether its darts, princess seams or the slope of your hips. A tailor’s pressing ham will help you get those seams nice and smooth. (They also come in longer cylindrical shapes for sleeve seams. I have both!)

Sewing Kit

Whether you sew by hand or use a machine, the bare basics are as follows, including the brand I recommend where applicable: (Shop full list here)

  • 8” Scissors (Gingher)

  • Regular Scissors (for paper - never cut paper with your good scissors!)

  • Straight Pins

  • Hand Sewing Needles in Variety Pack

  • Pin Cushion

  • Tape Measure

  • Seam Gage

  • Tackle Box

  • Machine Case

You might also want:

  • Replacement Universal Needles (for sewing machine)

  • Specialty Sewing Needles (for Denim or Knit)

  • Replacement Bobbins (specific to your machine)

  • Embroidery scissors or small snips

  • Thimble

  • Water Soluble Marking Pen

Recommended Reading

I swear by the Reader’s Digest Complete Guide to Sewing, which I’ve been using since it was a required textbook in my college courses. There’s no shame in refreshing your memory on a technique. And you don’t need the most recent edition! I actually collect sewing manuals from garage sales and thrift stores and it’s all good advice (some date back to the 1920s!) There’s also Google in a pinch (but sometime’s that’s a rabbit hole best avoided when you want to get a project done in a timely manner)

Online, I’ve really loved the Design Diary from Megan Nielsen. In fact, I didn’t even read her pattern instructions for the Dawn Jean, I just read the blog posts in order! They were SO helpful and detailed. A lot of Indie Designers provide this kind of information, which can be a lot more in-depth than the commercial patterns you buy at the fabric store. 

Speaking of indie designers and sewing bloggers, the #memade tag on instagram is a good way to find home sewers and pattern companies. Just click around!


Personal Sewing

At what age did you start sewing?

I started with hand sewing and quilting in the 3rd or 4th grade (so around age 10?) and did my first machine project a year or so later (I cut up a Vera Bradley dress to make into a mini version of their popular handbag). My mom made a lot of my clothing - especially special dresses - throughout my entire childhood. As I got into middle and high school, she and I would play designer by picking fabrics and silhouettes and she’d do the sewing. I made some things like skirts, but my mom put in the zippers for me (to this day I don’t enjoy zippers and usually put them in by hand!)

In college I studied Apparel Merchandising for my Batchelor’s Degree and did an additional Associate’s Degree in Costume Construction Technology which is where I learned flat pattern drafting, oodles of specialized sewing skills, intro to corsetry, millinery and glove making as well as beginning my fashion illustration skills. In the nearly 15 years since I’ve improve by leaps and bounds, and I attribute it to practice and anxiety medication (seriously)… now sewing is so zen for me. I absolutely love it!

You can see some of my makes here, here and here (I need to organize my tags!) And here are my historical costumes!


How do you sew with kids?

I’ve only recently been able to sew while the kids are around - my daughter is two and my son is four and a half. They are old enough to play solo or together - something that would have happened a year ago. My sewing station is adjacent to their play area and I usually give them a snack and a movie. Otherwise I sew in the evenings after bed or while they are at school/childcare. 

Will you make me something? I’ll pay you!

I’ll take the compliment! I’m not taking commissions at this time (unless you’ve got an offer I can’t refuse, then email me!)


I know I’m just skimming the surface here, but please let me know via comments if I can elaborate on any particular topic. I know some of you are looking for some pretty specific pattern recommendations and my best advice there is to google search your descriptors and follow other sewing bloggers (again, instagram is an awesome way to find them!) If you make anything, please share with me! I’d love to see!

Time Traveling | Early 19th Century Corded Stays

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I’ve been on a sewing roll in 2019 and my latest project is a pair of early 19th century stays. As fashion moved towards a neoclassical influence around the turn of the century, the undergarments worn also evolved. Instead of shaping the torso into a conical shape (like my first pair of stays), the shape of the bosom was more defined by lifting and separating the bust (versus just smushing them up like previous centuries).

The construction for this new shape incorporates gussets, or triangular shaped inserts, to give more shape to the stays. To me this is probably the first version of the bra we know and wear today - from flattened uniboobs to more rounded cups.

When it comes to my historical undergarments - you know me - the more elaborate, the better! Enter the idea for corded stays. These actually fall more towards the 1820-1830s due to the cording, but I’m hoping the shape of this garment will work for costumes between 1800-1840. Plus I wanted to make something spectacular, and I think I’ve done it!

For my base pattern, I worked with the Laughing Moon Mercantile 115 and chose a white coutil (a tightly woven fabric made for corsetry). I made a quick mock up in size 16, determined I could size down and got to the business of cutting and cording my pieces.

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For my cording design I used extant museum pieces (specifically this one) as my inspiration. I first drew sketches of the overall look and then moved to creating them on my paper pattern. I then taped my fabric and cording design to my windows and traced them with a water soluble pen. The design I started with is far less intricate than my final design because I just kept adding, adding, adding channels (even after front and back sides were joined) but I’m really glad I did. This is an intentionally softer style corset (there’s way more breathing room than my earlier pair) and isn’t meant for major waist reduction like mid 19th century - 20th century styles. It does provide posture correction and some shaping, but my rib cage can expand so much more than a heavily boned version. There are only four total boning channels, plus the front busk pocket so all of the extra cording gives the garment more strength. Plus I think it’s really beautiful!

After the channels are sewn, loose tails are threaded into a needle and taken to the back side. Every single stop and start of a stitching line! After a while I altered my technique a bit so I could sew one whole section (like 4 parallel lines) without cutting my thread. It can get mighty messy with all of those threads on the backside. Once they were pulled to the back, I tied the bobbin and top threads together and cut them near the knot. Then comes the fun part of actually getting the cording into the channels.

I did this using a combination of large needles, needle nose pliers and a fierce determination to carry on even when my fingers were so sore! You need the pliers to grab the needle and keep it from slipping as you gather the thick fabric and push the needle through. I can’t imagine even getting one channel complete without them! For the majority of the channels, I used a blunt tapestry needle, but I also used a long (4-5”) sharper needle to quickly get me through shorter channels. I had to be very careful to not puncture my top fabric with the needles and keep the cording (I just used cotton yarn) in place.

After the gussets were sewn and flossed (part embroidery, part stabilization), I moved onto the back eyelets. Those are all hand sewn and call me crazy but I LOVE doing them. They’re so cute and strong! Finally, after the straps were sewn to the back, I did bias binding around both the top and bottom edges. This is another thing I really love! If you’re precise, it looks so crisp and amazing. During that process I also added a drawstring channel to the top of the front so I could draw in the excess space created by the bust gussets.

The center front busk is a flat wooden piece inserted into a pocket. In my early construction phases I just used a freebie paint stick (as many a historical costumer has recommended online!) but wanted something a little more special and straight (there’s a small indentation about 2” from one edge on both left and right sides I didn’t want showing through my stays. Adam was able to run out to his woodshop and brought back a gorgeous ash version (wood leftover from our dining room floors!) in under 5 minutes! Thanks Adam!

This project took about seven working days to complete (during weekends, while kids are playing or at night). My pattern, fabric and lacing were a gift from my mother in law - thank you Mary!!!) and I harvested old steel bones (creepy!) from a corset I’m not planning on wearing again.

In the end I’m excited to add this piece to my costume closet and start making regency style dresses to be worn over it. If you’d like to see more behind the scenes, check out my Instagram Highlights to watch the process!

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